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Muted as the
dawn itself, the alarm cry of a solitary pond heron breaks the early
morning stillness as a dugout canoe, paddled by two fishermen,
glides across the water at a determined but unhurried pace. The
scene is idyllic, the mood dreamlike. Kerala’s back country
waterways seem far removed from the universe most of us inhabit, yet
they are linked to the rest of the world in a very real way, and
have been for at least two millennia. In earlier times, if less so
today, these very waterways were the staring point for the transport
of South Indian spices, which eventually found their way to the
distant shores of Europe and beyond. Formed by the 40- odd rivers
that flow down to the Arabian Sea form the Cardamom Hills in the
Western Ghats, this network of rivers, canals, lakes and estuaries
compromises one of India’s most beautiful areas a rural, river in expanse of verdant coconut groves and rice paddies. In Malayalam,
the language of Kerala, the backwaters are known as Kuttanad,
"the land of the short people," a reference, perhaps, to
the face that the farmers seen working here are often knee-deep in
paddy fields.
For centuries the backwaters have provided a safe and efficient
means of transportation for goods and people moving between the
interior and the port towns along the coast, Even today, coconuts,
pepper, coir, rice, and other such products of the region are
carried along these waterways in traditional boats called Kettuvallams
0or stitched canoes), and village children are ferried
off to school in all sorts of country craft.
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